Fashion Upcycling: The Problem of Overlapping Intellectual Property Rights and How to Solve it external link
Abstract
Fashion upcycling offers unprecedented opportunities for the sustainable reuse of clothing: using second-hand garments as raw materials for new creations, upcyclers can transform used pieces of clothing into new fashion products that may become even more sought-after than the source material. The productive reuse of garment components in upcycling projects is socially desirable in the light of the overarching policy goal to achieve environmental sustainability. However, the more individual fashion elements are protected by intellectual property (IP) rights, the more legal obstacles arise. Fashion items may enjoy cumulative copyright, industrial design and trademark protection. Accordingly, infringement claims may be based on multiple IP rights and upcyclers may have to rebut infringement arguments stemming from different IP domains.
Seeking to pave the way for large-scale upcycling initiatives in the circular economy, it is crucial against this background to develop robust defences that are applicable across different protection regimes. To achieve this goal, the rules governing protection overlaps should be recalibrated. As a corollary of the cumulation of different IP rights, rightsholders should be obliged to keep intact the checks and balances of each individual protection regime involved. Following this approach, only the smallest common denominator of exclusive rights – the scope of protection after subtraction of all forms of permissible unauthorized use – remains available. If upcycling is permissible under an exception to exclusive rights or the exhaustion rule in one protection regime, the rightsholder is obliged to ensure that overlapping rights in other IP domains do not stifle this breathing space. Practically speaking, this leads to the universal applicability of a defence for upcycling across the different domains of IP law.
Fashion, Intellectual property