Fashion Waste, Trade Mark Protection, and the Circular Economy: Towards a New Public Domain for Sustainable Reuse download

The Handbook of Fashion Law, Oxford University Press, 2025, Oxford, pp: 115–136, ISBN: 9780198938897

Abstract

Traditionally, the debate on trade mark law and the public domain has focused on the strategic use of trade mark law to artificially prolong exclusive rights after the expiry of protection in intellectual property systems with a limited term, and the grant of trade mark rights covering public domain material, such as cultural signs and traditional cultural expressions. While the glamorous world of fashion offers examples of protection term extension and public domain re-appropriation cases, the following analysis focuses on fashion reuse in the circular economy as a phenomenon that can be placed in a public domain context. Considering the urgent need for measures to enhance legal certainty for sustainable fashion reuse in the circular economy, the question arises whether the time has come to discuss a limitation of trade mark rights and a corresponding broadening of the public domain. More concretely, it seems tempting to establish a new public domain by giving second-hand and unsold fashion items the status of freely available resources for sustainable upcycling and reuse in the circular economy—even if these fashion items bear protected third-party brand insignia. Exploring options for the practical implementation of this new public domain space, the analysis will yield the insight that the termination of trade mark rights is beyond reach. Alternatively, however, lawmakers and judges could consider introducing a robust principle of free reuse that shields initiatives leading to the sustainable reuse of trade-marked fashion items effectively against allegations of trade mark infringement.

Fashion, Freedom of expression, Intellectual property, public domain, trade mark

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The Odyssey of the Prohibition on General Monitoring Obligations on the Way to the Digital Services Act: Between Article 15 of the E-Commerce Directive and Article 17 of the Directive on Copyright in the Digital Single Market external link

Abstract

EU law provides explicitly that intermediaries may not be obliged to monitor their service in a general manner in order to detect and prevent the illegal activity of their users. However, a misunderstanding of the difference between monitoring specific content and monitoring FOR specific content is a recurrent theme in the debate on intermediary liability and a central driver of the controversy surrounding it. Rightly understood, a prohibited general monitoring obligation arises whenever content – no matter how specifically it is defined – must be identified among the totality of the content on a platform. The moment platform content must be screened in its entirety, the monitoring obligation acquires an excessive, general nature. Against this background, a content moderation duty can only be deemed permissible if it is specific in respect of both the protected subject matter and potential infringers. This requirement of 'double specificity' is of particular importance because it prevents encroachments upon fundamental rights. The jurisprudence of the Court of Justice of the European Union has shed light on the anchorage of the general monitoring ban in primary EU law, in particular the right to the protection of personal data, the freedom of expression and information, the freedom to conduct a business, and the free movement of goods and services in the internal market. Due to their higher rank in the norm hierarchy, these legal guarantees constitute common ground for the application of the general monitoring prohibition in secondary EU legislation, namely Article 15(1) of the E-Commerce Directive ('ECD') and Article 17(8) of the Directive on Copyright in the Digital Single Market ('CDSMD'). With regard to the Digital Services Act (‘DSA’), this result of the analysis implies that any further manifestation of the general monitoring ban in the DSA would have to be construed and applied – in the light of applicable CJEU case law – as a safeguard against encroachments upon the aforementioned fundamental rights and freedoms. If the final text of the DSA does not contain a reiteration of the prohibition of general monitoring obligations known from Article 15(1) ECD and Article 17(8) CDSMD, the regulation of internet service provider liability, duties of care and injunctions would still have to avoid inroads into the aforementioned fundamental rights and freedoms and observe the principle of proportionality. The double specificity requirement plays a central role in this respect.

algorithmic enforcement, Auteursrecht, censorship, Content moderation, Copyright, defamation, Digital services act, filtering, Freedom of expression, frontpage, general monitoring, hosting service, injunctive relief, intermediary liability, notice and stay down, notice and take down, safe harbour, trade mark, user-generated content

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