Fashion Waste, Trade Mark Protection, and the Circular Economy: Towards a New Public Domain for Sustainable Reuse download

In: The Handbook of Fashion Law, E. Rosari & I. Calboli (eds.), Oxford University Press, 2025, Oxford, pp: 115–136, ISBN: 9780198938897

Abstract

Traditionally, the debate on trade mark law and the public domain has focused on the strategic use of trade mark law to artificially prolong exclusive rights after the expiry of protection in intellectual property systems with a limited term, and the grant of trade mark rights covering public domain material, such as cultural signs and traditional cultural expressions. While the glamorous world of fashion offers examples of protection term extension and public domain re-appropriation cases, the following analysis focuses on fashion reuse in the circular economy as a phenomenon that can be placed in a public domain context. Considering the urgent need for measures to enhance legal certainty for sustainable fashion reuse in the circular economy, the question arises whether the time has come to discuss a limitation of trade mark rights and a corresponding broadening of the public domain. More concretely, it seems tempting to establish a new public domain by giving second-hand and unsold fashion items the status of freely available resources for sustainable upcycling and reuse in the circular economy—even if these fashion items bear protected third-party brand insignia. Exploring options for the practical implementation of this new public domain space, the analysis will yield the insight that the termination of trade mark rights is beyond reach. Alternatively, however, lawmakers and judges could consider introducing a robust principle of free reuse that shields initiatives leading to the sustainable reuse of trade-marked fashion items effectively against allegations of trade mark infringement.

Fashion, Freedom of expression, Intellectual property, public domain, trade mark

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Intellectual Property and the Human Right to a Healthy Environment: An Introduction external link

Verfassungsblog, 2025

healthy environment, Human rights, Intellectual property

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Research Workshop Report: “The (Evolving) Human Right to a Healthy Environment: What Impact on Intellectual Property Laws?” external link

Meyermans-Spelmans, E. & Izyumenko, E.
Human Rights Here, 2025

Human rights, Intellectual property

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Intellectual Property in the Age of the Environmental Crisis: How Trademarks and Copyright Challenge the Human Right to a Healthy Environment

IIC, vol. 55, pp: 864-900, 2024

Abstract

In the face of the escalating environmental crisis driven by overconsumption, there is a growing recognition of the urgent need for environmental consciousness and a sustainable, circular economy. Practices like repair, refurbishment, and fashion upcycling have emerged as tangible efforts to mitigate the negative effects of this crisis. Perhaps unexpectedly, however, trademark and copyright laws clash with these endeavours, placing obstacles to sustainability goals. This paper contributes to the emerging literature devoted to studying this problem by undertaking the first in-depth analysis of the issue from a human rights law perspective. It specifically investigates the nature, scope, impact on, and consequences for intellectual property protection of the evolving human right to a healthy environment. Following a short introduction, the paper delves into the legal nature of obstacles posed by trademark and copyright protection to environmental sustainability, scrutinizes the human right to a healthy environment with a European emphasis, and proposes strategies for reconciling trademark and copyright protection with this fundamental right. The key findings are summarised at the end.

Intellectual property

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Reciprociteit bij bescherming vormgeving na RAAP: Annotatie bij Hoge Raad 31 maart 2023 (Kwantum / Vitra) download

Berichten Industriële Eigendom, iss. : 4, num: 10, pp: 221-223, 2023

Intellectual property, reciprociteit, vormgeving

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Freedom of Expression as a Rationale for IP Protection

GRUR International, vol. 72, iss. : 9, pp: 840-852, 2023

Abstract

This article revisits the discussion on the rationales for intellectual property (IP) protection by addressing a particular justificatory theory for IP that had come to the forefront of legal discussions in recent years – the theory based on freedom of expression and information. This modern vision of IP focuses on the communicative nature of IP subject-matter and of IP as a legal regime. Firstly, this article reviews the Kantian theory of copyright that lies at the origins of any modern discussions on the communicative nature of IP regulation with the aim of answering whether IP should be more properly conceived as the system for regulating communication. It then looks at the readings of this theory by contemporary copyright scholars and considers applicability of the communicative theory to other areas of IP such as trademarks and patents. The analysis then proceeds towards looking at the freedom of expression dimension of the ‘classic’ IP theories. Reflecting on this matter is important as the rationales for IP protection influence virtually all spheres of IP’s legal regulation, including – first and foremost – the reach of IP holders’ entitlements.

Freedom of expression, Intellectual property

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Territoriality Roundtables (combined report) download

Abstract

This report summarizes the outcome of two roundtables held with expert legal scholars on the need for a unified European copyright. Issues discussed include various models for a unitary copyright title and fundamental rights aspects. The Roundtables are part of a strand of the Recreating Europe project that queries how the territorial nature of copyright and related rights can hinder the realisation of the digital single market. While for e.g., trademarks and designs the EU has legislated community wide rights that extend across borders of individual Member States, copyright and related rights remain national at heart. Authors, performers, phonogram producers, database producers and other related rights owners all acquire bundles of national rights in their respective (intellectual) productions. Despite far-reaching harmonization of the subject-matter, scope and duration of national rights, these rights remain restricted in their existence and exploitation to the geographic boundaries of the individual Member States under whose laws they arise, i.e., they are territorial.

Copyright, Digital Single Market, EU law, Intellectual property, unitary title

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Remuneration rights and national treatment external link

Improving Intellectual Property: A Global Project, S. Frankel, M. Chon, G. Dinwoodie, B. Lauriat, J. Schovsbo (ed.), Edward Elgar Publishing, 2023, pp: 341-352

global policy goals, Intellectual property, international agreements, shifting boundaries

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FAIR, FRAND and open – The institutionalization of research data sharing under the EU data strategy

Improving Intellectual Property: A Global Project, S. Frankel, M. Chon, G. Dinwoodie, B. Lauriat, J. Schovsbo (ed.), Edward Elgar Publishing, 2023, pp: 319-329

global policy goals, Intellectual property, international agreements, shifting boundaries

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Expressive genericity revisited: What EU policymakers can learn from Rochelle Dreyfuss

Improving Intellectual Property: A Global Project, S. Frankel, M. Chon, G. Dinwoodie, B. Lauriat, J. Schovsbo (ed.), Edward Elgar Publishing, 2023, pp: 246-257, ISBN: 9781035310852

global policy goals, Intellectual property, international agreements, shifting boundaries

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